Fodor's Essential Italy by Fodor's

Author:Fodor's
Language: eng
Format: epub, mobi
Publisher: Fodor's Travel Publications
Published: 2014-10-22T16:00:00+00:00

The Oltrarno

Borgo San Jacopo.

ITALIAN | It makes perfect sense that any restaurant owned by the Ferragamo family would look sleek, elegant, and sophisticated. In the kitchen is Beatrice Segoni, one of the few female chefs in Florence. Her intimate, romantic restaurant has low lighting, white walls lined with prints, and a stunning view of the Arno. If you’re lucky enough to book the terrace when it’s warm, you will float over the river as you enjoy her remarkable offerings. The menu changes every three months or so, and fish is the emphasis. Before tucking into her delicious grigliata (mixed grill, including sole, sea bass, and stuffed squid), start with the innovative sformato di carciofi con petto d’anatra ai tre pepi (an artichoke flan topped with three-peppered duck), while remembering to leave room for her amazing desserts. | Average main: €65 | Borgo San Jacopo,14, Oltrarno | 055/281661 | www.lungarnohotels.com | Reservations essential | No lunch. Closed Tues. |

Fuori Porta.

WINE BAR | One of the oldest and best wine bars in Florence, this place serves cured meats and cheeses, as well as daily specials such as the sublime spaghetti al curry. Crostini and crostoni—grilled breads topped with a mélange of cheeses and meats—are the house specialty; the verdure sott’olio (vegetables with oil) are divine. The lengthy wine list offers great wines by the glass, and terrific bottles from all over Italy and beyond. All this can be enjoyed at rustic wooden tables, and outdoors when weather allows. | Average main: €10 | Via Monte alle Croci 10/r, Oltrarno | 055/2342483.

Gelateria la Carraia.

ITALIAN | Though it’s a bit of a haul to get here (it’s at the foot of Ponte Carraia, two bridges down from the Ponte Vecchio), you’ll be well-rewarded for doing so. They do standard flavors, and then creative ones such as limone con biscotti (lemon sorbet biscuits), and they do both of these very well. | Average main: €3 | Piazza Nazario Sauro 2, Oltrarno | 055/280695 | www.lacarraiagroup.eu | No credit cards.

Il Santo Bevitore.

TUSCAN | Florentines and other lovers of good food flock to “The Holy Drinker” for tasty, well-priced dishes. Unpretentious white walls, dark wood furniture, and paper placemats provide the simple décor; start with the exceptional vegetables sott’olio or the terrina di fegatini (a creamy chicken-liver spread) before sampling any of the divine pastas, such as the fragrant spaghetti with shrimp sauce. Count yourself lucky if the extraordinary potato gratin, served in compact triangular wedges, is on the menu. The extensive wine list is well priced, and the well-informed staff is happy to explain it. | Average main: €16 | Via Santo Spirito 64/66r, Oltrarno | 055/211264 | No lunch Sun. |

La Casalinga.

TUSCAN | Casalinga means “housewife,” and this place has the nostalgic charm of a 1950s kitchen with Tuscan comfort food to match. If you eat ribollita anywhere in Florence, eat it here—it couldn’t be more authentic. Mediocre paintings clutter the semipaneled walls, tables are set close together, and the place is usually jammed. The menu is long, portions are plentiful, and service is prompt and friendly.

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